Every year on Christmas Eve, when there is half a chance that the weather will hold out, we all tumble into as many vehicles we need to haul everyone to the bonfires in Gramercy. We often pack picnic meals to eat on the levee while waiting on the big event; the Gramercy Bonfires. Some say the bonfires light the way for Papa Noel to the River Parishes, others say that they historically helped guide the devoted to midnight Mass. Whatever started the tradition, I am thrilled to be a part of it over 100 years after it started.
As with other traditions, generations of families work together and enjoy building the bonfires for weeks ahead of Christmas Eve. Before the big event, they huddle around their masterpieces, waiting for the fun to begin. Some of the bonfires are very elaborate – some traditional tepee types, others as intricate as 18 wheelers and bulldozers; each meticulously set exactly 50 yards apart for many miles along the Mississippi River.
At 7 pm, the lighting begins; the first bonfire is lit, and every 15 seconds or so, like a domino effect, the bonfires are set ablaze. One is lit, then the next, and the next – until all of the bonfires are glowing for as far as the eye can see.
Standing in the distance, I hear the popping of the fireworks set in the fires begin to go off. As the fires get closer, the air gets hotter, and still more and more fires are lit. The popping of the fireworks and crackling of the wood gets closer and closer until the bonfire in front of me warms my skin. I gaze at the beauty of the fire flickering through the wood. As I look behind me, the next one is set aglow, the popping starts and the chain continues down the levee until all the fires are glowing, popping and sizzling.
As a celebration of the bonfire lighting, each family celebrates the successful lighting with a fireworks display – not the popping ones in the fire, but the beautiful ones that go high into the sky and fall gently down as a backdrop to the bonfires. It is truly a beautiful sight.
As I glance around, the homes along the levee are filled with friends and families, each enjoying their own Cajun tradition of gumbo, jambalaya and other south Louisiana favorites. Even though traffic is bumper to bumper, it is worth coming to see this amazing sight.
(thanks Steph for taking this picture)
Ahhhh, a true southern Cajun tradition; Louisiana Christmas Eve Bonfires. If you have never been to the bonfires, you should make it part of your Christmas holiday. Bring a meal, a cooler full of drinks, your camera and tripod – and Laissez bon temps rouler – “Let the good times
roll!”
We hope to see you toss a quilt down next to us on the levee next year - mark your calendar right away for Christmas Eve next year - but come early in the afternoon so you can see the bonfires in the daytime - before they are glowing. It is a wonderful Cajun event :-)
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